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Sunday, May 9, 2010

Do This and You Will Win

So you want to win a bike race.  No problemo.  The surest way is to get in a race where your only other competitor is your little sister.  Ok, seriously.  If you follow my advice to the letter you will eventually win a race.  This advice is primarily for the entry level competitor, but the following guidelines apply across all categories and levels.

The first step is training.  Books have been written about this.  PhD's have been attained on single detailed elements of this massive topic.  I'm going to boil it down to you in a couple lines.  Here goes:  Ride your bike at least one to two hours a day, and rest one day a week (rest means no riding or riding less than half effort).  Do intervals once a week as follows:  ride absolutely as hard as you can for one minute, then soft pedal as easy as you can for three minutes, repeat 5-8 times or until you think you see Jesus.  Place your rest day two days before your race.  This would be Thursday for a Saturday race.  Also place your interval day on Tuesday or Wednesday.  The day before the race you can ride moderately hard, but NO LONG HARD INTERVALS...... that's what the race will produce. (From personal experience I tend to race better on a second day of criterium racing, but not as well on the day after a long hard road race). 

Now it's time to get ready to race.   You've done the training and you're riding the right equipment.  What equipment you ask?  Let me be pithy.  For the beginner to intermediate racer the bike frame and components make (almost) absolutely no significant difference as long as they are functioning.  I would however suggest that you spend some money on fast wheels such as 404 Zipp tubulars, or HED Stingers (or similar wheels by another company), and good carbon soled shoes.   I would also suggest that you buy used wheels, and new shoes.  On second thought, as a category 4/5 the special wheels and shoes are not necessary, but I would rank equipment as follows:  1.wheels, 2. shoes & pedals, 3. all else.

Ok, so now it's time to race.  (You better know what and when to eat first)  Warm-ups are important for time-trialing and criterium racing.  Again there are many variations.  Let me be pithy.  Ride 30 minutes at a conversational pace with 2-3 one minute intervals at 80% (estimated) efforts. with full recovery in-between.  Allow about 5 minutes to get to the start line.  If you have a bike trainer, bring it to the race in case the surrounding streets are unsuitable for warming up.  Try not to use the trainer if the temperature is high due to overheating and dehydrating.  If the trainer is absolutely necessary you can dampen your body with water and consume ice water to keep your core temperature down. (Here's my post about heat management with bike racing).

The type of course should determine the importance of starting and riding at or near the front of the peloton.  If the course is a simple flat square or rectangle, your starting position is unimportant.  If the course is technical with lots of cornering and the field size is large it is critical to start and ride as near to the front as possible.  There are 4 reasons for this.  1. It is safer from crashes, 2. higher chance for making it into a winning break-a-way, 3. smoother and easier cornering, with much less "accordion" effect of braking into and sprinting out of the corners and 4. you won't get gaped off the main group due to riders in front of you falling off the pace.  

The first two laps and the last two laps are generally among the fastest and hardest, so mentally expect this.  Focus on the wheel of the rider ahead of you.  Stay nicely in his/her draft.  Try to relax but concentrate on good cornering (see my earlier blog on this topic, April 23, 2010).  Do not allow yourself to half-wheel.  Faster races are safer than slow races because the riders become single file and if a crash occurs on a corner, the rider is swept out of the way by pure momentum.  Be wary when the group bunches up and allow yourself some escape room.  On very slow corners ride the outside and faster corners try to be on the inside if riders are paired/grouped up.

Generally the first half of the race is inconsequential.  Save your energy and spend zero time at the front pulling the field or sprinting for primes (prize laps).  Do stay close to the front during a prime lap, especially later primes.  This is a good opportunity to get into a break-a-way.  The strongest riders will naturally be present during this period and attacking/launching off field after this period is ideal.  Often the prime winner will not make this counter-move which is also nice because you have illuminated a potentially good sprinter. If you do get in a break-a-way, it is critical to ride very aggressively initially.  The best scenario is to get out of the view of the chasing pack (out of sight, out of mind).  If you are lucky you will have maybe 2-5 other riders with you that are all from different teams. Their team-mates should not chase you and may actually discourage others from pursuing you by drafting off the chasers behind you and not rotating through.

Winning break-a-ways generally occur when the field is at their most tired state and the strongest riders tend to be at the front, a gap occurs and bang they are gone.  If you are in the draft of other riders and are suffering, alarms should be going off in your head that this is the time that a break could occur.  Try to get near the front if it is possible.  You should do this in bursts and advance past as many riders as you can each burst.  If you are lucky you can jump on a wheel of someone who is advancing in front of you.   If the field is single file it is generally best to wait until it slows down and starts to bunch up to advance.  On the other hand if a gap occurs and a break develops,  it is best to bridge across as fast as possible, then try to sit on and recover and start working with the break ASAP.  When in a break, generally try not to do more "work" than the racer who is doing the least amount of "work".  Basically, try to save your energy after the break-a-way appears successful. 

Often break-a-ways don't succeed and even if they do the winner is typically determined by a sprint.  Bike racing is all about timing.  The last two laps of a criterium is critical for positioning.  If the race is not single file the back of the pack will swarm the front.  You must be aggressive (not reckless) and constantly try to stay at or near the front.  This is not a time to worry about drafting.  Get out front if necessary, you will be safer and if you don't go full out you should be able to get back in the draft.  You may be very tired at this point, but no matter what you must not let yourself give in and let off the gas.  The winner will generally not be the first person out of the last corner unless it is less than 100 meters and that person is a good sprinter.  You should be in 2nd position around 100 yards and perhaps 3-4 if the finish is around 200 yards.  There could be some variation to my description based on the sprinting abilities of you and your competitors. 

Badda bing, badda bang!  If you did everything just as I described, you have just won your first race!  Ok maybe not, but eventually.  You'll never forget your first victory no matter how small.  Mine was 2nd season as a category 4 in the Tidewater area in Virginia, while I was in the Navy, 1989.  I only caught partial seasons due to being out to sea on Mediterranean Cruises, but this 2nd season was the very last race of the season.  For some reason it was a really small race, almost like a tiny training race, maybe 15 guys.  It was around a school football stadium.  It didn't even really have true corners and I jumped the guy who typically won the sprints and did a long sprint (typical sprints are 200 meters and around 10-12 seconds) and he couldn't really come around on the curving finish.  That was over 20 years ago and I remember it happily.  I promise that you'll never forget your first win...... unless you bonk your head...... or become senile (like Fred does sometimes) ....... otherwise, you'll never forget it!!!!!

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17 comments:

  1. Good job. If someone can't win by following that advice, then they just can't win.

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  2. Hey, thanks for the advice!

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  3. Jimmy, thanks. I should add that it may take more than one try!
    Greg, thanks for reading. I hope to hear of some victory(ies) in your near future.

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  4. great advice and website. Keep it up!

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  5. Just wanted to say that as a beginner Cat5, your blog has been very helpful. Won my first race last week and I would say your tips work well as well in practice as they do in theory. And thanks for helping justify my possibly buying some nice, expensive wheels...

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  6. K.T. That's freaking awesome to hear! Obviously, keep it up!

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  7. Was wondering if you could help me out with something I'm struggling with in Cat 4 races. Every race I try to not be packfill and avoid being victim of the 'accordian' effect by staying up front, but somehow I either end up pulling the field or just getting sucked back into the swarm. I can't seem to manage to continually stay in that 3 - 10ish spot. I know that you say that for most of your basic crits (3 out of the 4 Gateway Cup courses for example), positioning is not really important until the final 2 laps. When I stay in the pack most of the race however I find myself having to slow down and accelerate at each corner do to the natural slowing of the field. On the contrary, when I try to stay up front throughout the race I somehow screw myself and end up having to take a pull and pace the field for a half lap or so. I'd be interested in your next blog entry if you wouldn't mind touching more on this subject. Thanks again for an awesome, informative blog.

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  8. Ryan, your observation is classic of normal bike racing. It can be hard staying in the sweet spot of a field, especially when racing. I don't think it necessarily wrong to pull the pack provided that it is short (1/4 lap or less), not more often than some of the other typical top riders/finishers. On technical courses the extra energy spent in the wind is worth the cost. It will allow you the best lines, and fastest corners, with less braking and sprinting out of said corners ("accordion effect") and also put you in position for break-a-ways and counter attacking.

    You'll have to figure out your strengths and weakness and ride accordingly. For me I can move up in quick bursts and then quickly recover. I try to do so when the pack slows a bit (such as after primes). Also in longer straight-a-ways immediately after a corner. After accelerating out of the turn, simply keep your sprint effort up and run up the line. Try to get back in the group safely and before the next turn. I look for gaps or in front of a team-mate or someone who won't freak out as I move in front of them. I must say I hate it when someone does this to me, but immediately before or actually during a turn. I try not to do that, but in racing it happens by and to everyone eventually.

    Another technique is to visually mark a rider(s) (usually a winning rider or top finisher) and stay as close as you can to that rider. When you drift back or are passed simply race yourself back onto your marked rider over time.

    I hope this helps. I'm sure with more racing experience you'll figure out what works best for you.

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  9. Dave, I re-read this blog post prior to the Belleville race two weeks ago and achieved my first Cat 4 victory...your advice helped immensely obviously! Thanks again

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  10. Ryan, Great report and good job! Very nice to hear!

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  11. David,
    I find your post on the importance of wheels and shoes very interesting. Can you elaborate more on the shoes and pedals part?

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  12. Mike, the shoes and pedals are extremely important because they are the transfer points of power to the bicycle. The pedal should be light, with high end bearings (most efficient) and have a small profile (allows better cornering without clipping a pedal). The shoe should also be light, stiff (carbon soles are ideal) and comfortable. Lightness is quite important for best performance because the shoe pedal combination is a rotating object that accelerates faster if it's mass is smaller. Weight removed from rotating objects is probably twice as important as removing weight from fixed objects such as bike frames for performance gains.

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  13. Thanks, David.

    I am now using the Sidi Carbon shoes with Look Keo2 pedals. I think that should be enough for me now. I'm not doing racing but I just want to learn on how to go faster.

    By the way, care to write an article about indoor trainers? I have difficulty finding proper long road for training and so I am now using the Lemond revolution trainer.

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  14. Great equipment Mike. I run the same pedals and the Sidi shoes are excellent. I like your suggestion about writing an article concerning trainers and I will do one.

    Quick question about the Lemond revolution trainer: Is it noisy or quiet during operation? The design is ideal (saves tires and reduces chance of poor skewer mount that occurs with some trainer/skewer combinations).

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  15. The Lemond trainer is already moderately loud when you're only going <30kph. At 30-40kph it is really really loud.

    What I do is I put a small bracket in the handlebar to put my Ipad on. And with an IEM (in ear monitors) I can watch Youtube videos while training without getting bothered by the wind noise caused by the fans.

    Another thing about the trainer is that it doesn't come with a RPM/speed meter, so you have to buy the module separately and that's another $350. So everything comes up close to $1k. Once installed the monitoring module works wirelessly to monitor RPM, speed, Watts, heart rate, pretty much everything.

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  16. By the way, while the tips you posted are solid, I think it would be interesting to make comparison posts between say a Zipp 404 to the carbon wheels from Hongfu which costs $500 a set.

    http://www.e-hongfu-bikes.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=74

    I think a LOT of people would like to know how the hong fu wheels perform. I mean the Zipp is $2,300 and to many it's way out of our budget.

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    1. Mike, the wheels look very nice and the price is EXTREMELY nice. By looks alone they should perform somewhat closely in the aerodynamic category (which is a huge factor), but the site gives no weights and no reviews. I would also like to know how they perform. They could be awesome wheels, or very heavy or worse.... fail around the nipples in the rim.

      Until a good review comes out on the hong fu wheels, my safest cheapest advice is to buy slightly used "name-brand" wheels. The old saying, "you get what you pay for", could very well apply here (but not necessarily... a person could get lucky, but I wouldn't count on it).

      Sorry I'm so late responding to your comment. In my defense, I did write the article about indoor trainers as you requested. :-)

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