Safety first my friends. I mean that. It's pretty hard to ride injured. Even harder dead. I've had a lot of fun riding this year and happily it has been non-eventful concerning interactions with cars while training. That's pretty darn good considering the amount of time I have spent riding my bike on the roads with cars. This year alone I've spent many hundreds of hours biking on our public roadways.
If you are a grizzled professional rider or highly experienced rider you may feel that you can't learn anything from my list of survival tactics for road cycling. This may be true, but you might be able to add to the list and save someone some damage or general stress. Please review and add to the comments below. I'll update this list as appropriate.
I have several survival tactics for staying alive/injury free while bicycling. They are as follows:
1. I try to always wear my helmet.
1.5 Never ride against traffic (this is an update, submitted by a reader)
2. I try to maintain my bicycle, gears, chains, cables, brakes, tires and pressure. Cleaning a bike is a good way to inspect for damage.
3. I find that it is safer to know exactly where I'm going to bike ride. This has many many advantages.
a. I know the road conditions such as gravel spots, pot holes, deep cracks, etc.
b. I know where chasing dogs are in advance.
c. I know the idiosyncrasies of certain intersections such as round-a-bouts, lane merges, etc.
4. Concerning dogs: I try to sneak past areas where I know that have dogs that chase. If an escape is not possible first try to vocally command the dog to "Go Home!"(this is an update, submitted by a reader) If this is ineffective, a water bottle spray to the face may halt a charging/snapping dog temporarily. Just long enough to make the escape. I have found it generally best to slow down and in some cases actually get off my bike. Most dogs are not wild vicious beasts that attack people (even though some love to bite moving cyclists if given a chance). Generally the biggest danger is falling from tangling up with a dog. This can be much worse than a dog bite. If you do have to dismount your bike because a snapping dog is dangerously close and inescapable, keep your bike between you and the dog. The bike can become your shield (and even weapon) to allow you to back out a dangerous dog encounter.
4.5 Concerning dogs and group riding: Same tips as above with a few amendments.
a. Inform others of known areas with chasing dogs in advance. This allows others to expect and anticipate difficulties, and bike more defensively.
b. try to pass known areas with chasing dogs with stealth (quick and quiet)
c. When a charging dog is spotted yell out to others "DOG!" and direction of the animal missile.
d. large groups can not possibly get away from a chasing dog (the group will be in a line of some sort), so anticipate braking or possible erratic bike handling.
e. It is ideal if an experienced rider would pull out of the line and block/shield the group from the charging dog. This person should vocally command the dog, use water bottle spray to temporarily halt the dog, or a frame pump for defense if necessary. I personally would recommend using full caution, slowing down until a quick escape can be made.
I also like the pepper spray idea, but I've never used it. It's probably a good idea to contact the dog owner about restraining a dangerous dog or call animal control. I have contacted a dog owner after a teammate was rendered unconscious from a high-speed tangle with a pursuing dog. I explained that he could be held liable for damages that his unrestrained dog causes. I never saw the dog again.
5. I ride the same roads, the same time of day.
a. This allows me to be able to predict/anticipate traffic conditions.
b. This also allows the traffic to predict me. Often many drivers travel the same routes at the same times. Predictability is usually a good thing.
6. I try to obey all traffic laws. Not only is it the law, but it is much safer.
[Caveat this is written from a US/North American perspective. The rest of the English speaking world (UK, Australia and New Zealand etc drive on the left therefore most of my advice that I have given should be reversed on which side to go down etc]
a. On left turns I fully enter a lane behind existing traffic. Wait my turn and signal just as though I were an automobile.
b. When I'm able to ride close to a posted speed limit, I take the entire lane.
c. I take the entire lane on very technical roads where cars should never try to pass anyone.
d. I never try to impede traffic. When I see cars stacked up behind me, I will often pull over to let them pass quickly. I also tend to pull over when I'm aware of semi-trucks and trailers that are pulling big/heavy loads. I do this partly out of courtesy, and especially for my own well being.
Below is a really good video illustration on when and how to "take the lane" in accordance with the law governing vehicles on roadways.
7. I look over my left shoulder for traffic frequently. I have found that if I look back at an approaching vehicle, they NEVER buzz me (as in: come dangerously close). Let me repeat that with a slight variation. If a driver sees you look back they will not drive dangerously close to you, they will pass you safely. Strange but true.
8. I tend to ride relatively close to the edge of the road whenever possible. When riding with a cycling partner I tend to ride to the left of my cycling partner (for conversation), looking for cars and moving single file if a car is noticed.
9. When I see an oncoming car, I always check for cars coming behind me. I can't always do it, but I try to speed up or slow down to avoid being passed on my left, just as an oncoming car is passing as well. It may be appropriate to briefly take up a full lane in a situation where roads are so narrow that should a car choose to dangerously and unlawfully pass you, all parties lives are in jeopardy. Riding on the edge of the road in this case may encourage a reckless driver to make a dangerous and unlawful pass.
10. I try to wear bright colors, and avoid night riding. Yes night lights are a must for night riding(especially very powerful front and flashing rear lights), but I think it's safer NOT to ride on the roads at night. (The trail is great for night riding).
11. I try NOT to assume that cars see me at intersections.
a. At intersections with heavy traffic I will often advance along side (but in a bike lane) and at the speed of an advancing automobile. This way the car is shielding me from all other cars except my right side (where both I and the car shielding me are both visible). Care must be taken that the advancing car is not turning right. I do this by not positioning myself in the blind spot of the driver at the stop. I pull full up to the stop line, just off to the right side of the front bumper and make eye contact with the driver. The driver will see me, and signal appropriately (otherwise I let the car lead).
b. When I see a car waiting to pull out, I am on my guard. If I can not see the driver's face look my way, I stop pedaling and begin to prepare myself for that driver to pop out into my path.
c. I am also on my guard when I see a car preparing to turn left in front of me. (this is my least favorite, because it is hard to know if I have actually been seen or if the driver thinks he can beat me).
12. Before passing a parked car, I quickly look back for approaching cars and then move over just outside of a potential door swing (should it open suddenly).
13. I never "flip off" a driver of a car in retaliation. It's my opinion that there's clearly something wrong with this person, and not a good idea to indulge this person. (I haven't been flipped off even once this year..... pretty weird)
14. I almost always try to ride roads with the least amount of car traffic and consider that traffic is increased going away from the city around 4:00 to 6:00pm and less going toward the city at the same time.
15. I think mirrors are very valuable. I bought one and couldn't adapt it to my helmet. Recently my friend Bob C. let me use his that attaches to sunglasses and it was fantastic.
16. When crossing railroad tracks try to do so squarely (as in perpendicular) to the track (or as much as possible). If the railroad track is wet and you do not cross it squarely, expect to kiss the pavement.
17. Learn to "bunny hop" (jumping both the front and rear wheel off the ground at the same time). This skill can save you from crashing when crossing seams or deep cracks in the road, as well as potholes, and many other unavoidable objects that suddenly appear. At the very minimum always pop your front wheel over unavoidable objects. This will tend to keep you upright.
18. NEVER EVER EVER place a wheel on a bike without skewering it on properly. (This happens sometimes when transporting a bike short distances with the intention of removing the wheels immediately, but forgetting or getting distracted. It's a very dangerous action. I know of riders who had severe injuries because of this innocent mistake.)
19. Here's a link to Bicycle Safety: How to Not Get Hit by Cars. It restates what I have said in this post (minus a few items on their part), but they have some helpful illustrations.
20. There is evidence that riding in groups may have a safety advantage. Here's a link discussing this topic. I must say that group riding can produce some safety issues, and I have seen riders sometimes less alert to automobiles with a group (perhaps they think others are doing it for them).
a. it is best to ride known planned routes with riders that you know well.
b. If you are riding with beginners take the lead and/or do not draft closely behind them
c. At slower speeds allow room plenty of room for sudden decelerations or erratic bike handling.
d. The lead rider is responsible for alerting following riders of safety hazards (i.e. potholes, roadkill, pedestrian, deep crack, glass, objects in road, etc). This is done by physically pointing at hazard and "yelling out" the hazard to riders behind. They should do the same for following riders.
e. The last rider should alert the riders ahead when cars are approaching to allow riders to adjust as appropriate. Such as get single file or pull over to allow a back up of vehicles to pass or in some cases take the full lane to prevent dangerous passes by overtaking vehicles.
f. Signal and verbally communicate all turns in advance to your group.
g. anticipate a rider to decelerate when standing to climb a hill and ride off center of their rear wheel so that contact of wheels will not occur.
h. All other safety tips listed here apply when riding in groups.
21. Never "bomb" (full speed/edge of control) a blind curving descent on an open road. There could be obstacles in the road or a your bike could have a mechanical and send you into or under an oncoming vehicle (depending on the road curve).
If anyone can think of additional safety ideas please add them in the comments section. I'll, in turn, add them to this list. Hopefully an idea will save someone some skin.
My survival techniques for racing are a bit different and they are as follows:
1. I try to never "half-wheel". This is where my front wheel overlaps the rear wheel of a cyclist in front of me. If they move over suddenly while I am half-wheeling, I could very likely crash (they generally won't crash)
2. Inside line (when cornering 2 abreast) is generally best when cornering. Riders that crash will slide outward. If you are on the inside of a turn, you can ride uninterrupted if someone crashes on your outside.
3. Faster races tend to be safer because the riders become single file. When the pack bunches up, I am on my guard for a potential crash caused by half-wheeling.
4. Run good tires with ideal tire pressures. For tubulars: 110/120 on non-technical courses, 90psi front and 105 rear on technical dry courses, and 85 psi front and 95 psi rear for wet courses. (I've heard of running as low as 80 and 80 for wet courses) Clinchers are all different and riders must consult the manufacturers instructions.
5. I personally skip technical courses in the rain. Professional riders can't do this. If you watch my videos you will note that I do sometimes ride in the rain and that I also sometimes crash in the rain.
6. I try to not ride behind someone who has just crashed or has a history of crashing.
7. For road races I tend to ride near the yellow line. If a sudden crash occurs I can potentially go left (assuming there is no on coming car). Riding the edge of the road can lead to punctures and possibly riding off the road.
8. Never cross the yellow line except for safety concerns. (on coming cars are, of course, safety concerns)
9. Look ahead for obstacles, barriers, cones etc. Do not fully rely on the person you are drafting off of.
10. When a crash is unavoidable try to react quickly and aim for the best landing and try to avoid fixed objects. Prepare to tumble, arms out for initial contact and tuck and tumble.
Again, if anyone can think of additional survival techniques for racing, please add them in the comments section.
That's it for this post. Safe riding everyone. And fun riding.
If you are a grizzled professional rider or highly experienced rider you may feel that you can't learn anything from my list of survival tactics for road cycling. This may be true, but you might be able to add to the list and save someone some damage or general stress. Please review and add to the comments below. I'll update this list as appropriate.
I have several survival tactics for staying alive/injury free while bicycling. They are as follows:
1. I try to always wear my helmet.
1.5 Never ride against traffic (this is an update, submitted by a reader)
2. I try to maintain my bicycle, gears, chains, cables, brakes, tires and pressure. Cleaning a bike is a good way to inspect for damage.
3. I find that it is safer to know exactly where I'm going to bike ride. This has many many advantages.
a. I know the road conditions such as gravel spots, pot holes, deep cracks, etc.
b. I know where chasing dogs are in advance.
c. I know the idiosyncrasies of certain intersections such as round-a-bouts, lane merges, etc.
4. Concerning dogs: I try to sneak past areas where I know that have dogs that chase. If an escape is not possible first try to vocally command the dog to "Go Home!"(this is an update, submitted by a reader) If this is ineffective, a water bottle spray to the face may halt a charging/snapping dog temporarily. Just long enough to make the escape. I have found it generally best to slow down and in some cases actually get off my bike. Most dogs are not wild vicious beasts that attack people (even though some love to bite moving cyclists if given a chance). Generally the biggest danger is falling from tangling up with a dog. This can be much worse than a dog bite. If you do have to dismount your bike because a snapping dog is dangerously close and inescapable, keep your bike between you and the dog. The bike can become your shield (and even weapon) to allow you to back out a dangerous dog encounter.
4.5 Concerning dogs and group riding: Same tips as above with a few amendments.
a. Inform others of known areas with chasing dogs in advance. This allows others to expect and anticipate difficulties, and bike more defensively.
b. try to pass known areas with chasing dogs with stealth (quick and quiet)
c. When a charging dog is spotted yell out to others "DOG!" and direction of the animal missile.
d. large groups can not possibly get away from a chasing dog (the group will be in a line of some sort), so anticipate braking or possible erratic bike handling.
e. It is ideal if an experienced rider would pull out of the line and block/shield the group from the charging dog. This person should vocally command the dog, use water bottle spray to temporarily halt the dog, or a frame pump for defense if necessary. I personally would recommend using full caution, slowing down until a quick escape can be made.
I also like the pepper spray idea, but I've never used it. It's probably a good idea to contact the dog owner about restraining a dangerous dog or call animal control. I have contacted a dog owner after a teammate was rendered unconscious from a high-speed tangle with a pursuing dog. I explained that he could be held liable for damages that his unrestrained dog causes. I never saw the dog again.
5. I ride the same roads, the same time of day.
a. This allows me to be able to predict/anticipate traffic conditions.
b. This also allows the traffic to predict me. Often many drivers travel the same routes at the same times. Predictability is usually a good thing.
6. I try to obey all traffic laws. Not only is it the law, but it is much safer.
[Caveat this is written from a US/North American perspective. The rest of the English speaking world (UK, Australia and New Zealand etc drive on the left therefore most of my advice that I have given should be reversed on which side to go down etc]
a. On left turns I fully enter a lane behind existing traffic. Wait my turn and signal just as though I were an automobile.
b. When I'm able to ride close to a posted speed limit, I take the entire lane.
c. I take the entire lane on very technical roads where cars should never try to pass anyone.
d. I never try to impede traffic. When I see cars stacked up behind me, I will often pull over to let them pass quickly. I also tend to pull over when I'm aware of semi-trucks and trailers that are pulling big/heavy loads. I do this partly out of courtesy, and especially for my own well being.
Below is a really good video illustration on when and how to "take the lane" in accordance with the law governing vehicles on roadways.
7. I look over my left shoulder for traffic frequently. I have found that if I look back at an approaching vehicle, they NEVER buzz me (as in: come dangerously close). Let me repeat that with a slight variation. If a driver sees you look back they will not drive dangerously close to you, they will pass you safely. Strange but true.
8. I tend to ride relatively close to the edge of the road whenever possible. When riding with a cycling partner I tend to ride to the left of my cycling partner (for conversation), looking for cars and moving single file if a car is noticed.
9. When I see an oncoming car, I always check for cars coming behind me. I can't always do it, but I try to speed up or slow down to avoid being passed on my left, just as an oncoming car is passing as well. It may be appropriate to briefly take up a full lane in a situation where roads are so narrow that should a car choose to dangerously and unlawfully pass you, all parties lives are in jeopardy. Riding on the edge of the road in this case may encourage a reckless driver to make a dangerous and unlawful pass.
10. I try to wear bright colors, and avoid night riding. Yes night lights are a must for night riding(especially very powerful front and flashing rear lights), but I think it's safer NOT to ride on the roads at night. (The trail is great for night riding).
11. I try NOT to assume that cars see me at intersections.
a. At intersections with heavy traffic I will often advance along side (but in a bike lane) and at the speed of an advancing automobile. This way the car is shielding me from all other cars except my right side (where both I and the car shielding me are both visible). Care must be taken that the advancing car is not turning right. I do this by not positioning myself in the blind spot of the driver at the stop. I pull full up to the stop line, just off to the right side of the front bumper and make eye contact with the driver. The driver will see me, and signal appropriately (otherwise I let the car lead).
b. When I see a car waiting to pull out, I am on my guard. If I can not see the driver's face look my way, I stop pedaling and begin to prepare myself for that driver to pop out into my path.
c. I am also on my guard when I see a car preparing to turn left in front of me. (this is my least favorite, because it is hard to know if I have actually been seen or if the driver thinks he can beat me).
12. Before passing a parked car, I quickly look back for approaching cars and then move over just outside of a potential door swing (should it open suddenly).
13. I never "flip off" a driver of a car in retaliation. It's my opinion that there's clearly something wrong with this person, and not a good idea to indulge this person. (I haven't been flipped off even once this year..... pretty weird)
14. I almost always try to ride roads with the least amount of car traffic and consider that traffic is increased going away from the city around 4:00 to 6:00pm and less going toward the city at the same time.
15. I think mirrors are very valuable. I bought one and couldn't adapt it to my helmet. Recently my friend Bob C. let me use his that attaches to sunglasses and it was fantastic.
16. When crossing railroad tracks try to do so squarely (as in perpendicular) to the track (or as much as possible). If the railroad track is wet and you do not cross it squarely, expect to kiss the pavement.
17. Learn to "bunny hop" (jumping both the front and rear wheel off the ground at the same time). This skill can save you from crashing when crossing seams or deep cracks in the road, as well as potholes, and many other unavoidable objects that suddenly appear. At the very minimum always pop your front wheel over unavoidable objects. This will tend to keep you upright.
18. NEVER EVER EVER place a wheel on a bike without skewering it on properly. (This happens sometimes when transporting a bike short distances with the intention of removing the wheels immediately, but forgetting or getting distracted. It's a very dangerous action. I know of riders who had severe injuries because of this innocent mistake.)
19. Here's a link to Bicycle Safety: How to Not Get Hit by Cars. It restates what I have said in this post (minus a few items on their part), but they have some helpful illustrations.
20. There is evidence that riding in groups may have a safety advantage. Here's a link discussing this topic. I must say that group riding can produce some safety issues, and I have seen riders sometimes less alert to automobiles with a group (perhaps they think others are doing it for them).
a. it is best to ride known planned routes with riders that you know well.
b. If you are riding with beginners take the lead and/or do not draft closely behind them
c. At slower speeds allow room plenty of room for sudden decelerations or erratic bike handling.
d. The lead rider is responsible for alerting following riders of safety hazards (i.e. potholes, roadkill, pedestrian, deep crack, glass, objects in road, etc). This is done by physically pointing at hazard and "yelling out" the hazard to riders behind. They should do the same for following riders.
e. The last rider should alert the riders ahead when cars are approaching to allow riders to adjust as appropriate. Such as get single file or pull over to allow a back up of vehicles to pass or in some cases take the full lane to prevent dangerous passes by overtaking vehicles.
f. Signal and verbally communicate all turns in advance to your group.
g. anticipate a rider to decelerate when standing to climb a hill and ride off center of their rear wheel so that contact of wheels will not occur.
h. All other safety tips listed here apply when riding in groups.
21. Never "bomb" (full speed/edge of control) a blind curving descent on an open road. There could be obstacles in the road or a your bike could have a mechanical and send you into or under an oncoming vehicle (depending on the road curve).
If anyone can think of additional safety ideas please add them in the comments section. I'll, in turn, add them to this list. Hopefully an idea will save someone some skin.
My survival techniques for racing are a bit different and they are as follows:
1. I try to never "half-wheel". This is where my front wheel overlaps the rear wheel of a cyclist in front of me. If they move over suddenly while I am half-wheeling, I could very likely crash (they generally won't crash)
2. Inside line (when cornering 2 abreast) is generally best when cornering. Riders that crash will slide outward. If you are on the inside of a turn, you can ride uninterrupted if someone crashes on your outside.
3. Faster races tend to be safer because the riders become single file. When the pack bunches up, I am on my guard for a potential crash caused by half-wheeling.
4. Run good tires with ideal tire pressures. For tubulars: 110/120 on non-technical courses, 90psi front and 105 rear on technical dry courses, and 85 psi front and 95 psi rear for wet courses. (I've heard of running as low as 80 and 80 for wet courses) Clinchers are all different and riders must consult the manufacturers instructions.
5. I personally skip technical courses in the rain. Professional riders can't do this. If you watch my videos you will note that I do sometimes ride in the rain and that I also sometimes crash in the rain.
6. I try to not ride behind someone who has just crashed or has a history of crashing.
7. For road races I tend to ride near the yellow line. If a sudden crash occurs I can potentially go left (assuming there is no on coming car). Riding the edge of the road can lead to punctures and possibly riding off the road.
8. Never cross the yellow line except for safety concerns. (on coming cars are, of course, safety concerns)
9. Look ahead for obstacles, barriers, cones etc. Do not fully rely on the person you are drafting off of.
10. When a crash is unavoidable try to react quickly and aim for the best landing and try to avoid fixed objects. Prepare to tumble, arms out for initial contact and tuck and tumble.
Again, if anyone can think of additional survival techniques for racing, please add them in the comments section.
That's it for this post. Safe riding everyone. And fun riding.
